Thought:
Courage is not the freedom from fear but being afraid and still going on.
* * *
Here I am completely dependent on someone else's agenda, on someone else to whether I will eat today... to get my food, where I go, what I do, when I get home to sleep.... it can be worrisome at times for me... And always very trying.
"Therefore do no worry about what you will eat or about your body, what you will wear. Life is more htan food and the body more than clothes... if that is how God clothes the grass of the field, which is here today and gone tomorrow, how much more will he clothe you..."(Luke 12:22)
The Balancing Act
It never ceases to amaze me and to watch the people who pass by carrying items on their heads. It seems everyone one carries their loads this way. Can you do that too? I ask my friends at Global Relief. Of course they say. It doesn't matter, male or female, old or young, everyone walks around this way.... And then I learned there was ONE exception, one tribe somewhere in Nigeria, who doesn't - they think the head is sacred and one must not put items on it. I think, "Boy they must think the rest of Nigeria society is crazy, for disrespecting the sacredness of their heads, can you imagine?"
Its a beautiful art.
Oh the things you see, on people's heads... smiles. These boys are selling peanuts, and bananas. I have seen watermelons, coconuts, eggs, and the sorts carried along, on the head of a small boy or girl. Selling bits of food for a living.
This man is selling household items. But mostly anti-malaria gimics, mosquito repellent, etc.
Its a beautiful art.
Oh the things you see, on people's heads... smiles. These boys are selling peanuts, and bananas. I have seen watermelons, coconuts, eggs, and the sorts carried along, on the head of a small boy or girl. Selling bits of food for a living.
This man is selling household items. But mostly anti-malaria gimics, mosquito repellent, etc.
Holding Hands
Men do not hold hands with women in public. You do not show affection in public. Yet, women hold hands with women, and MEN hold hands with MEN. This is to show genuine friendship, and kindness towards others. This wouldn't be seen in Canada. It took me by surprise at first, but it is something very common here.
Time
The phrase "Nigerian Time" refers to the NON-observance of time in this culture. Nigerians are generally NOT time orientated. They will usually not interupt a chat with someone else if they are expected to be else where. If you are to be somewhere at this time, expect it to be a minimum of a half hour later. My day began at 830am, to be ready for pick-up. Only once were they on time, but not because they needed to pick me up, there were other priorities that day... the rest of the time they were there anywhere between 930am and noon. Waiting became the norm of each day. Waiting to be picked up, waiting while errands are done in town, waiting to eat a meal (hours after you stomache started grumbling), waiting to be taken home... I learnt to take a book with me... the ease the madness of waiting.
Men do not hold hands with women in public. You do not show affection in public. Yet, women hold hands with women, and MEN hold hands with MEN. This is to show genuine friendship, and kindness towards others. This wouldn't be seen in Canada. It took me by surprise at first, but it is something very common here.
Time
The phrase "Nigerian Time" refers to the NON-observance of time in this culture. Nigerians are generally NOT time orientated. They will usually not interupt a chat with someone else if they are expected to be else where. If you are to be somewhere at this time, expect it to be a minimum of a half hour later. My day began at 830am, to be ready for pick-up. Only once were they on time, but not because they needed to pick me up, there were other priorities that day... the rest of the time they were there anywhere between 930am and noon. Waiting became the norm of each day. Waiting to be picked up, waiting while errands are done in town, waiting to eat a meal (hours after you stomache started grumbling), waiting to be taken home... I learnt to take a book with me... the ease the madness of waiting.
June 21, 2007
Today I saw a one-legged man hobbling along with a man with one arm. They looked joyful in each other company.
There are many that I see with no limbs. Many out along the sidewalks and in the center medians, hobbling along, stretching out their arms begging. I saw a legless man who developed the equivalent of a skateboard and rolled himself along the street.
Today I saw a one-legged man hobbling along with a man with one arm. They looked joyful in each other company.
There are many that I see with no limbs. Many out along the sidewalks and in the center medians, hobbling along, stretching out their arms begging. I saw a legless man who developed the equivalent of a skateboard and rolled himself along the street.
Mr. Bigg's
Mr. Bigg's is the fast food sensation in Nigeria. It would be the equivalent of McDonald's here, I guess. But they sell spicy rice with chicken or beef, meatpies, fanta, hotdogs (but not like ours), and other oddities. Its the low cost eating out, but not low cost enough that the average person can eat there. There is a hired door personnel to keep out the street people, and to open the door to customers... This place however, isn't a favorite of the baturias, or people that are avoiding tummie ills. I went there a couple times, and tried this and that... but each time I got a terrible tummie ache. I'll stick to the bowl of mash potatoes.
This Mr. Biggs is right down town in the market area. The beggar follow you in and out of the place. They stand at the windows looking in, and stand at your car windows, surrounding the cars. There is never enough to give. There is an abundance of beggers here. It is accepted way of life in Muslim culture. One of the five "pillars" of Islam is to give alms to the poor, so the "poor" make sure they are out there to recieve the alms. Families sometimes refuse to get medical help for their members if, by being handicapped, they can bring in extra income. In fact, some parents will sometimes purposely maim their infant children in order to make them beggars for life. The white-colored boys are the "almajiri" students studying Islam. Several times a week, their teachers send them out to beg. To greet the beggars you say, "Allah, ya ba da sa'a" God gives hope.
Mr. Bigg's is the fast food sensation in Nigeria. It would be the equivalent of McDonald's here, I guess. But they sell spicy rice with chicken or beef, meatpies, fanta, hotdogs (but not like ours), and other oddities. Its the low cost eating out, but not low cost enough that the average person can eat there. There is a hired door personnel to keep out the street people, and to open the door to customers... This place however, isn't a favorite of the baturias, or people that are avoiding tummie ills. I went there a couple times, and tried this and that... but each time I got a terrible tummie ache. I'll stick to the bowl of mash potatoes.
This Mr. Biggs is right down town in the market area. The beggar follow you in and out of the place. They stand at the windows looking in, and stand at your car windows, surrounding the cars. There is never enough to give. There is an abundance of beggers here. It is accepted way of life in Muslim culture. One of the five "pillars" of Islam is to give alms to the poor, so the "poor" make sure they are out there to recieve the alms. Families sometimes refuse to get medical help for their members if, by being handicapped, they can bring in extra income. In fact, some parents will sometimes purposely maim their infant children in order to make them beggars for life. The white-colored boys are the "almajiri" students studying Islam. Several times a week, their teachers send them out to beg. To greet the beggars you say, "Allah, ya ba da sa'a" God gives hope.
Bike Taxis
Oh the strange sites you see as you drive along the streets of Jos. What will I see on a bike taxi today? How many people can I see crammed on to a small little bike to day? Oh look a buidling supplies, groceries, the kitchen sink... Two GOATS upside down across a man's lap? A man carrying handfuls of live chickens... Oh the things that people juggle as they ride a bike taxi through town... I would snap a picture of them all, if those bikes weren't so zippy.
Oh the strange sites you see as you drive along the streets of Jos. What will I see on a bike taxi today? How many people can I see crammed on to a small little bike to day? Oh look a buidling supplies, groceries, the kitchen sink... Two GOATS upside down across a man's lap? A man carrying handfuls of live chickens... Oh the things that people juggle as they ride a bike taxi through town... I would snap a picture of them all, if those bikes weren't so zippy.
Scenes From The Streets of Jos
The business of food, shelter, transport and God, simply. These seem to be the most common and found on every street corner. (shelter-cement, transport-small gas merchants, God-church). Then to top it off hair salons, video/Cd sellers, and all that jazz...
There are churches on every street, if not two. This one was rather peculiar...smiles.
Sellers line the streets, with perishables...The most common is the corn sellers, who roast the corn in a small coal fire...
Cement Stores are on every street. Buy your cement here. Buy your building bricks here. It was a common site to see patch work done here and a new fence go up there....
The colors that line the streets. Tomatoes, peppers, ocra, pumpkin leaves, potatoes, yams, ....
There are churches on every street, if not two. This one was rather peculiar...smiles.
Sellers line the streets, with perishables...The most common is the corn sellers, who roast the corn in a small coal fire...
Cement Stores are on every street. Buy your cement here. Buy your building bricks here. It was a common site to see patch work done here and a new fence go up there....
The colors that line the streets. Tomatoes, peppers, ocra, pumpkin leaves, potatoes, yams, ....
Thoughts...
"Culture is a person's mental map of their world, a map for determining action, a guide for decision making and behaviors. A map for how people communicate feelings, (expressions...)... Our cultural values determine our rights and wrongs - not what we "think about", but rather what we "think with".
"Culture is a person's mental map of their world, a map for determining action, a guide for decision making and behaviors. A map for how people communicate feelings, (expressions...)... Our cultural values determine our rights and wrongs - not what we "think about", but rather what we "think with".
Fire Flies
My Nigerian friends all think me strange at my fascination with the fire flies dancing in and out of the grasses in the dark. Its not special for them, because they seem them every night. But it the first time Ive seen them ever. It reminds me of the Pirates of the Carribean ride, the swamp part... the fire flies. Now these are real. Wish I had a glass jar to catch me some.
Lizards.
I could watch the lizards do their belly dance on the hot buildings all day. I'd like to catch one and hold it closer to my eyes. But they are too fast. They scamper around building to building, rock to rock... as common as a crow in Canada. My Nigerian friends don't think much of them, they are just there, and maybe some annoying. I guess the same could be thought of crows back at home, just there, rummaging...
My Nigerian friends all think me strange at my fascination with the fire flies dancing in and out of the grasses in the dark. Its not special for them, because they seem them every night. But it the first time Ive seen them ever. It reminds me of the Pirates of the Carribean ride, the swamp part... the fire flies. Now these are real. Wish I had a glass jar to catch me some.
Lizards.
I could watch the lizards do their belly dance on the hot buildings all day. I'd like to catch one and hold it closer to my eyes. But they are too fast. They scamper around building to building, rock to rock... as common as a crow in Canada. My Nigerian friends don't think much of them, they are just there, and maybe some annoying. I guess the same could be thought of crows back at home, just there, rummaging...
Internet Cafe(s)
A good place to take your hand sanitizer. Sometimes you get a rickety old keyboard and sticky, then the typing is hard to muster, when you are trying to type as fast as you can to get your emails done in a limited time, before the power runs out, or your time card runs out, because the interent connection is super slow. Are we spoiled in Canada? I counted it took three minutes to just open up one email one time. And there were plenty of times when I typed a long email, just to have the power go off and lose my writing... Hmmm and that's all if there is a free computer, and you can get to the interenet cafe today, if the car is running, if there is not a torrential downpour, if someone else's agenda allows you to, and you have someone to take you, in my case. I'm just glad to be home on my computer.
Garbage
Oh the Sarah Stouts would find Nigeria home.
Here no one takes the garbage out.
Garbage lines the streets, the ditches, the corn fields, the markets, the hill sides... it is simply everywhere... and a bothersome sight. And a terrible smell.
You need to do your job here, Peter says. That is, administer a litter program. But here there is no garbage pick up, no garbage cans for that matter, no landfill... Where would the litter go, if they didnt litter?
Litter has become the embankments of the city, buildings are built on top, it is as common as the soil upon which they walk... it is so tremendous, one can not fathom. Peter says the government is starting an "Clean-Up Nigeria" campaign. It should be interesting to follow.
Urban spaces
Water ways.
Along side a road, forming an embankment.
Garbage is mixed up in the soil of vegetable gardens as if it is fertilizer.... as common as the soil the plants grow in.
Oh the Sarah Stouts would find Nigeria home.
Here no one takes the garbage out.
Garbage lines the streets, the ditches, the corn fields, the markets, the hill sides... it is simply everywhere... and a bothersome sight. And a terrible smell.
You need to do your job here, Peter says. That is, administer a litter program. But here there is no garbage pick up, no garbage cans for that matter, no landfill... Where would the litter go, if they didnt litter?
Litter has become the embankments of the city, buildings are built on top, it is as common as the soil upon which they walk... it is so tremendous, one can not fathom. Peter says the government is starting an "Clean-Up Nigeria" campaign. It should be interesting to follow.
Urban spaces
Water ways.
Along side a road, forming an embankment.
Garbage is mixed up in the soil of vegetable gardens as if it is fertilizer.... as common as the soil the plants grow in.
Baturia
I am stared at wherever I go. In the car, in the market, ... "Baturia"(hausa) "Iyinbo"(pigeon language) they call out as they see me. The kids stare, and I wave, they smile and wave back. I am constantly reminded that I look different. And here I worry about my acne making me stand out... here it is all of my skin... smiles. Even Little Didi (Peter and Martha's daughter) takes a couple days to come near me, and when she finally does, she is fascinated by my skin, always rubbing my arms, hands, face, toes.. it feels wonderful... Other kids will join in this ritual.... When we visited the rural village, one man said to the member on our team, that he hadn't seen a white folk for about 7 years. They all come out to see... the baturia in the midst. And when Im in the market, its "baturia" what are you going to buy from me? "Baturia" come here and buy... because "white" means money. When I do go to the market, I bring a friend or two that barters for me... and if they can't barter it, we walk away... then they never fail to lower the price.
I am stared at wherever I go. In the car, in the market, ... "Baturia"(hausa) "Iyinbo"(pigeon language) they call out as they see me. The kids stare, and I wave, they smile and wave back. I am constantly reminded that I look different. And here I worry about my acne making me stand out... here it is all of my skin... smiles. Even Little Didi (Peter and Martha's daughter) takes a couple days to come near me, and when she finally does, she is fascinated by my skin, always rubbing my arms, hands, face, toes.. it feels wonderful... Other kids will join in this ritual.... When we visited the rural village, one man said to the member on our team, that he hadn't seen a white folk for about 7 years. They all come out to see... the baturia in the midst. And when Im in the market, its "baturia" what are you going to buy from me? "Baturia" come here and buy... because "white" means money. When I do go to the market, I bring a friend or two that barters for me... and if they can't barter it, we walk away... then they never fail to lower the price.
Village
Do you have any villages in Canada I am asked? Don't think they use that word to describe any human settlements in Canada, although they may have at one time. Here its a common question. What village are you from?
Fanta
Fanta is everywhere. Coke. Sprite. Orange pop. The ground is littered with Fanta metal tops. Fanta is carried around town in truck loads, and it seems everyone serves it to you. While it was nice to have some "tastes from home", I couldn't drink much Fanta(too sick to handle the sugar), in fact I can count how many I had on my one hand. All the same, the culture of Fanta here paints a beautiful, colorful picture.
Do you have any villages in Canada I am asked? Don't think they use that word to describe any human settlements in Canada, although they may have at one time. Here its a common question. What village are you from?
Fanta
Fanta is everywhere. Coke. Sprite. Orange pop. The ground is littered with Fanta metal tops. Fanta is carried around town in truck loads, and it seems everyone serves it to you. While it was nice to have some "tastes from home", I couldn't drink much Fanta(too sick to handle the sugar), in fact I can count how many I had on my one hand. All the same, the culture of Fanta here paints a beautiful, colorful picture.
Hissing
Everyone hisses. Its a means of getting someone's attention. If you want someone to come over and buy something you hiss. If you want someone selling something to come over to you, you hiss. If you just want someone's attention, simply hiss. Even little Didi (Peter & Martha's 2 yr old daughter) copies the hissing. What a sound. Next time try hissing at your partner, your mother, or your best friend the next time you need something from them.. and see what they think. Smiles. Well there its common, and you become quite use to it. However, not so much that I too hissed. Still havent mastered it. Smiles.
Old Cars.
Left where they break down for the most part. Old cars line the streets. There seems to be a wreckage on each other block. I saw a large tanker truck, that looked like it had been on fire, still siting along a major road in Abuja. Guess there really isnt any money in towing them away. My friends here say, its the government's responsibility to tow them away, but they don't.
Everyone hisses. Its a means of getting someone's attention. If you want someone to come over and buy something you hiss. If you want someone selling something to come over to you, you hiss. If you just want someone's attention, simply hiss. Even little Didi (Peter & Martha's 2 yr old daughter) copies the hissing. What a sound. Next time try hissing at your partner, your mother, or your best friend the next time you need something from them.. and see what they think. Smiles. Well there its common, and you become quite use to it. However, not so much that I too hissed. Still havent mastered it. Smiles.
Old Cars.
Left where they break down for the most part. Old cars line the streets. There seems to be a wreckage on each other block. I saw a large tanker truck, that looked like it had been on fire, still siting along a major road in Abuja. Guess there really isnt any money in towing them away. My friends here say, its the government's responsibility to tow them away, but they don't.
The Way They Drive in Nigeria.
The cure for "Back seat driver syndrome" - go to a place like Nigeria, where everyone drives like a nut, and don't wear a seatbelt. Too busy praying to give any orders... but can't make orders because nobody would follow them, smiles.
Both lanes of traffic use both sides of the road, both performing a dance, weaving in and out from eachother, with a honk here and a honk there, a flash of the head lights here and a flash of the headlights there, and don't forget a fist and an insult.
There's a whole lot of honking going on. If you don't honk, you don't get anywhere. Even as I lay in bed at night, I still hear the horns. Its never quiet in the city, as long as people are trying to get somewhere.
And please don't make me think about the way one makes a left hand corner. Or how close they drive to the pedestrians walking along the streets, so many times I thought the rearview mirror would snag someones arm and do some serious damage... And if I thought the cars were crazy the motor bikes are even worse. They are like hornets. Everywhere, weaving in and out around cars, trucks.... everywhere.
I have seen motor bikes crash into people, people fall off of bikes in the midst of traffic (including a mother with a baby strapped on her back, all but landing on the baby behind her, only to get back on the bike...), and I have personally jumped out of the way of a motor bike after a wheel blew and the driver lost control...
And car accidents. They happen all the time. Little nicks and scratches here and there... is it any wonder they way they drive AND force themselves into a line of traffic... until they are only millimeters away from the next vehicle sometimes it seems. The Land Rover has sustained at least 3 nicks from other drivers in the time I have spent in Nigeria. Angry words back and forth between the other driver and the driver of the Land Rover, then both are on their way. In Canada it would be a big law suit, and a lot of Moola. Here its an arguement, and a shaking of head. I have noticed many of arguements pertaining to bad driving incidence through out Jos. Angry people seem to be on this street corner and that street corner... a way of life, when it comes to driving.
Laura, maybe you should drive, my Nigerian friends say from time to time. Honestly if given a chance to drive here, I'd have to respectfully decline. One good thing, I have found a new found faith being in a vehicle... I have had no choice but to have faith.
The cure for "Back seat driver syndrome" - go to a place like Nigeria, where everyone drives like a nut, and don't wear a seatbelt. Too busy praying to give any orders... but can't make orders because nobody would follow them, smiles.
Both lanes of traffic use both sides of the road, both performing a dance, weaving in and out from eachother, with a honk here and a honk there, a flash of the head lights here and a flash of the headlights there, and don't forget a fist and an insult.
There's a whole lot of honking going on. If you don't honk, you don't get anywhere. Even as I lay in bed at night, I still hear the horns. Its never quiet in the city, as long as people are trying to get somewhere.
And please don't make me think about the way one makes a left hand corner. Or how close they drive to the pedestrians walking along the streets, so many times I thought the rearview mirror would snag someones arm and do some serious damage... And if I thought the cars were crazy the motor bikes are even worse. They are like hornets. Everywhere, weaving in and out around cars, trucks.... everywhere.
I have seen motor bikes crash into people, people fall off of bikes in the midst of traffic (including a mother with a baby strapped on her back, all but landing on the baby behind her, only to get back on the bike...), and I have personally jumped out of the way of a motor bike after a wheel blew and the driver lost control...
And car accidents. They happen all the time. Little nicks and scratches here and there... is it any wonder they way they drive AND force themselves into a line of traffic... until they are only millimeters away from the next vehicle sometimes it seems. The Land Rover has sustained at least 3 nicks from other drivers in the time I have spent in Nigeria. Angry words back and forth between the other driver and the driver of the Land Rover, then both are on their way. In Canada it would be a big law suit, and a lot of Moola. Here its an arguement, and a shaking of head. I have noticed many of arguements pertaining to bad driving incidence through out Jos. Angry people seem to be on this street corner and that street corner... a way of life, when it comes to driving.
Laura, maybe you should drive, my Nigerian friends say from time to time. Honestly if given a chance to drive here, I'd have to respectfully decline. One good thing, I have found a new found faith being in a vehicle... I have had no choice but to have faith.
Television
When I did catch some tele, here and there. What did I watch. Nigerian Soaps are popular, but very amateur. The Mexican soaps are hilarious. How come they get tele from Mexico, I don't know. Depending on the location, there is CNN and the BBC, and Nigerian news.. which I found most interesting. What I found most bizarre is the American pop videos from the 90s... Backstreet Boys, Boys to Men, Micheal Jackson, Snoop Dog, Spice Girls... some videos I haven't seen since I was in highschool. Why the time warp in the past, when it comes to American tele influence, I don't know. But already the new generation is trying to copy the styles and culture. The older generation has become to preach about it in church, and question the American tele influence on Nigerian youth, on Nigerian television programs.
The Land Rover - July 18th 2007
The Land Rover has been at the mechanics for 4 days now, my first week in Abuja. And I get to take public transit. Anne (SIM) says, "wow you've learnt how to hail and take a cab already? I didn't try to attempt that until I was here several months." I had no choice. And after night fall and in the rain to bout. A strange site, a baturia walking after dark in town with a black man. We both walk fast. It takes several taxi, a transit, and walking a far bit, to get me back to the SIM lodging. What an adventure. And I havent even been here a week.
Taxi in Jos
Taxi in Jos. Most of the taxis look like a base ball bat has tried to beat the car into a pancake. Some taxis have cracked windshields, like a spiderweb... And as I'm getting into the taxi, I'm thinking, "Im getting into a taxi that looks like this, what does this say about his ability to drive?"... That and praying under my breath, hail marys and all that jazz...
When I did catch some tele, here and there. What did I watch. Nigerian Soaps are popular, but very amateur. The Mexican soaps are hilarious. How come they get tele from Mexico, I don't know. Depending on the location, there is CNN and the BBC, and Nigerian news.. which I found most interesting. What I found most bizarre is the American pop videos from the 90s... Backstreet Boys, Boys to Men, Micheal Jackson, Snoop Dog, Spice Girls... some videos I haven't seen since I was in highschool. Why the time warp in the past, when it comes to American tele influence, I don't know. But already the new generation is trying to copy the styles and culture. The older generation has become to preach about it in church, and question the American tele influence on Nigerian youth, on Nigerian television programs.
The Land Rover - July 18th 2007
The Land Rover has been at the mechanics for 4 days now, my first week in Abuja. And I get to take public transit. Anne (SIM) says, "wow you've learnt how to hail and take a cab already? I didn't try to attempt that until I was here several months." I had no choice. And after night fall and in the rain to bout. A strange site, a baturia walking after dark in town with a black man. We both walk fast. It takes several taxi, a transit, and walking a far bit, to get me back to the SIM lodging. What an adventure. And I havent even been here a week.
Taxi in Jos
Taxi in Jos. Most of the taxis look like a base ball bat has tried to beat the car into a pancake. Some taxis have cracked windshields, like a spiderweb... And as I'm getting into the taxi, I'm thinking, "Im getting into a taxi that looks like this, what does this say about his ability to drive?"... That and praying under my breath, hail marys and all that jazz...
Electricity
NEPA, The National Electric Power Association. NEPA a household word. The word rolls off peoples tongues morning and night as simple as if they are talking about the weather for the day. NEPA is on, NEPA is off. The meaning of which forcasts the progress of one's day, whether it be cooking, cleaning, laundry, television, computer.... These extra luxuries that come with the presence of NEPA. NEPA, unpredictable, unreliable. Very frustrating when using a computer or trying to email someone. Lost work, lost emails... How often do you find yourself talking about HYDRO, or actually acknowledging that you have HYDRO when you wake up and cook breakfast, or HYDRO at night when you come home to watch the news, or read under a light?
By looking at some of the amateur wiring jobs throughout the city, is it any wonder why NEPA surges.
July 16th 2007
Well I had a pleasant surprise today. I registered at the SIM guest house for parts of my stay here in Nigeria. Well it may not be so bad after all. A comfortable bed, a flush toilet, and I can even take a bath!
There was trouble on the way home with the Land Rover today. The problem is that Peter has just purchased this vehicle and no one really knows how to manage it. A volunteer driver was trying to maneuver us through the city, but too much stalling and grinding the gears resulted in a shot starter and the vehicle had to be pushed to the side. You can't imagine the chaos of pushing a dead vehicle to the side, in a maze of traffic. I was told to stay in the vehicle, gladly in the mayhem. Just as soon as the care was pushed to the side, an angel Kenny, shows up - some of us hop into his car, only seconds before my first experience of a torrential down pour.
Back at the office - met with umbrellas, from the car door to the office door - in a matter of seconds, even with the umbrella, I am soaked. I enter, and Martha has a small group of people waiting for me inside. There are balloons and ribbons on the wall and a 'Welcome Laura' sign. As I enter, they start to sing, "You are welcome, in the name of the Lord...". I meet a handful of Global Relief friends and volunteers. We have a couple snacks, peanuts and cookies, and Fanta. Then they sit me in the center chair and grill me with questions about my coming there and tell me about myself... But the party is cut short, the day has been delayed due to earlier car troubles, but we must be off to my SIM orientation.
SIM orientation - where I get to learn a bit about safety and health, nigerian culture, etc. The questions pour out, finally a social space to ask some of the questions and to relieve some of the worries Ive had. Gestures, dress, appropriateness, "white woman" rep, what does this mean? etc. I found it very helpful... But this too is only one perception. I find there is always more than one answer to all my questions. Best way to learn is to observe.
Well I had a pleasant surprise today. I registered at the SIM guest house for parts of my stay here in Nigeria. Well it may not be so bad after all. A comfortable bed, a flush toilet, and I can even take a bath!
There was trouble on the way home with the Land Rover today. The problem is that Peter has just purchased this vehicle and no one really knows how to manage it. A volunteer driver was trying to maneuver us through the city, but too much stalling and grinding the gears resulted in a shot starter and the vehicle had to be pushed to the side. You can't imagine the chaos of pushing a dead vehicle to the side, in a maze of traffic. I was told to stay in the vehicle, gladly in the mayhem. Just as soon as the care was pushed to the side, an angel Kenny, shows up - some of us hop into his car, only seconds before my first experience of a torrential down pour.
Back at the office - met with umbrellas, from the car door to the office door - in a matter of seconds, even with the umbrella, I am soaked. I enter, and Martha has a small group of people waiting for me inside. There are balloons and ribbons on the wall and a 'Welcome Laura' sign. As I enter, they start to sing, "You are welcome, in the name of the Lord...". I meet a handful of Global Relief friends and volunteers. We have a couple snacks, peanuts and cookies, and Fanta. Then they sit me in the center chair and grill me with questions about my coming there and tell me about myself... But the party is cut short, the day has been delayed due to earlier car troubles, but we must be off to my SIM orientation.
SIM orientation - where I get to learn a bit about safety and health, nigerian culture, etc. The questions pour out, finally a social space to ask some of the questions and to relieve some of the worries Ive had. Gestures, dress, appropriateness, "white woman" rep, what does this mean? etc. I found it very helpful... But this too is only one perception. I find there is always more than one answer to all my questions. Best way to learn is to observe.
Cell Phone Society
Cell phones are everywhere. Cell phone card sellers, and business establishments are everywhere. People sell cell phone cards on every street corner, they will stand at your vehicle and wave the cards around until you tell them to go... And if your driving, you can wave a cell phone taxi down... We are always stopping to buy more minutes, 100 nairos here, 400 nairos here, yet they NO ONE ever seems to have any "naira" (minutes) on their cell phones. Its always a conversation piece... "do you have any, I don't have any "naira""... A culture dependent on their cell phones (yes worse than in Canada...) the only difference, is there is no landlines.. they have become outdated.. but they never really worked anyways it was told.
Tidbit: They even mention in church services to "turn off your phones, this is the house of God", lest there be a choir of cell phone rings...which is the case everywhere else.
Both photos, above and below show typical phone card merchants. You can buy minutes here for your cell OR use the merchant's cell and pay for the call, the equivalent to our(Canadian) "pay phones"...
Cell phones are everywhere. Cell phone card sellers, and business establishments are everywhere. People sell cell phone cards on every street corner, they will stand at your vehicle and wave the cards around until you tell them to go... And if your driving, you can wave a cell phone taxi down... We are always stopping to buy more minutes, 100 nairos here, 400 nairos here, yet they NO ONE ever seems to have any "naira" (minutes) on their cell phones. Its always a conversation piece... "do you have any, I don't have any "naira""... A culture dependent on their cell phones (yes worse than in Canada...) the only difference, is there is no landlines.. they have become outdated.. but they never really worked anyways it was told.
Tidbit: They even mention in church services to "turn off your phones, this is the house of God", lest there be a choir of cell phone rings...which is the case everywhere else.
Both photos, above and below show typical phone card merchants. You can buy minutes here for your cell OR use the merchant's cell and pay for the call, the equivalent to our(Canadian) "pay phones"...
In the Office.
This is the office of Global Relief... its off to the side, in the house of Peter & Martha, the couple who took care of me the entire time I was in Nigeria. If I was not staying here with them, I came here every Monday to Friday pretty much, to help out in the office... and to be apart of a scheduled work week.
Here's the inside of the office. I gave Peter a Canadian flag when I arrived. He put it up in the office. It was nice to see some color on the walls there, and something from home! Here we are in a volunteer training session, given by RURCON...
This is the office of Global Relief... its off to the side, in the house of Peter & Martha, the couple who took care of me the entire time I was in Nigeria. If I was not staying here with them, I came here every Monday to Friday pretty much, to help out in the office... and to be apart of a scheduled work week.
Here's the inside of the office. I gave Peter a Canadian flag when I arrived. He put it up in the office. It was nice to see some color on the walls there, and something from home! Here we are in a volunteer training session, given by RURCON...
Driving to Jos - July 16th, 2007
It's about a four hours drive to Jos from Abuja. We leave around 4pm, so there is about 2 hours of day light left to see the sites as we drive. We are still driving when darkness falls and I hear the first sounds of the night through the car window. What is making that sound I ask? What is out there? I can't see anything, so I can't tell if its a jungle or grassland... but its sounds full... Crickets are the most likely answer. The windows are open as we are driving, it would be too strong, smelling of gas if the windows were closed. Will the mosquitos get me now that it is night? It is my first NIGHT experience in Nigeria... and I am feeling a little vulnerable, and not knowing how long the journey to Jos will take, not knowing the road conditions, or what surrounds us, or what creatures lie in wait... We are stopped at a couple road blocks. Ah ha, men with machine guns do exist. Who are these people stopping us and what do they want? I don't get this explained to me, later I am finally able to figure out who is the police, who is the road control, who is the military etc. They all carry machine guns. The men at the road block let us pass. It was scary I have to admit, this first experience. They held a large wood two by four covered with upright nails, under the vehicle, to keep the vehicle stopped, they scan the vehicle with their flashlights, and remove the board, and wave us past. (I'll have to tell those intersted of another experience when we were stopped by men with large nail 2X4, a 14 month old, and a driver who didnt speak english, and I not knowing what the heck was going on...a time when I wish I was fluent in hausa.)
On the way to Jos, and in the dark, Joel the driver, and mechanic, has to stop the Land Rover and top up the water. And later the gas runs out... or at least it seems that way. There is a second tank, under the passenger's seat. Joel manually takes off the hose from the back tank and attaches it to the front... I wouldnt see this in Canada. Is this safe? This become a norm. And the Land Rover is not yet finished having its way with us... it likes to spend its time at the mechanics, and it like to give us problems when we go place, especially when we are in the middle of no where... I learnt to take it as it comes.
We finally arrive in Jos around 10pm. This is my second night's sleep in Nigeria, and I am wondering what I have gotten my self into? I sleep because I must, it is a matter of mind over matter this night... maybe tomorrow Ill have a better outlook.
It's about a four hours drive to Jos from Abuja. We leave around 4pm, so there is about 2 hours of day light left to see the sites as we drive. We are still driving when darkness falls and I hear the first sounds of the night through the car window. What is making that sound I ask? What is out there? I can't see anything, so I can't tell if its a jungle or grassland... but its sounds full... Crickets are the most likely answer. The windows are open as we are driving, it would be too strong, smelling of gas if the windows were closed. Will the mosquitos get me now that it is night? It is my first NIGHT experience in Nigeria... and I am feeling a little vulnerable, and not knowing how long the journey to Jos will take, not knowing the road conditions, or what surrounds us, or what creatures lie in wait... We are stopped at a couple road blocks. Ah ha, men with machine guns do exist. Who are these people stopping us and what do they want? I don't get this explained to me, later I am finally able to figure out who is the police, who is the road control, who is the military etc. They all carry machine guns. The men at the road block let us pass. It was scary I have to admit, this first experience. They held a large wood two by four covered with upright nails, under the vehicle, to keep the vehicle stopped, they scan the vehicle with their flashlights, and remove the board, and wave us past. (I'll have to tell those intersted of another experience when we were stopped by men with large nail 2X4, a 14 month old, and a driver who didnt speak english, and I not knowing what the heck was going on...a time when I wish I was fluent in hausa.)
On the way to Jos, and in the dark, Joel the driver, and mechanic, has to stop the Land Rover and top up the water. And later the gas runs out... or at least it seems that way. There is a second tank, under the passenger's seat. Joel manually takes off the hose from the back tank and attaches it to the front... I wouldnt see this in Canada. Is this safe? This become a norm. And the Land Rover is not yet finished having its way with us... it likes to spend its time at the mechanics, and it like to give us problems when we go place, especially when we are in the middle of no where... I learnt to take it as it comes.
We finally arrive in Jos around 10pm. This is my second night's sleep in Nigeria, and I am wondering what I have gotten my self into? I sleep because I must, it is a matter of mind over matter this night... maybe tomorrow Ill have a better outlook.
Church Advocacy Visits
The Church Advocacy visits started from the get go. Peter has me speak in front of a Church body, the first full day in Abuja. He couched me on a couple things to say, where I am from, why am I here, what will I be doing with Global Relief, and possibly to encourage others to come volunteer. This having to do some sort of a presentation, with only a day or even minutes notice in this case, was the norm for Peter, I would come to know. I find it frustrating, as Im the one who likes to be well rehearsed and knowing what to say. Yet, it seems to work out just fine.
We make two church advocacy visits the first Sunday I am in Abuja. Foursquare and Family Worship Center. FMC reminds me of Northview in Abbey a little, weathy, big... yet, here in this wealth, sits rights outside the church gate.
We attend different churches each Sunday, and meet with the Pastors to tell them about Global Relief's poverty reduction efforts. Every Sunday, excluding the one we spent traveling to Mikang, and the one where I was sick in bed. I enjoyed the diversity between the churches, the sit down, stand up of the Anglican, to the jump, down turn around Pentecostal.
One thing I found especially different about the churches in Nigeria, is their ritual of tithing. Its a big deal. Everyone files one by one to the front of the church to slip their envelopes into the front basket, dancing and singing their way to the front, and back to their seat. Sometimes they repeat this procedure several times... Im thinking, I wonder if anyone dares not to be apart of the congo line to the front of the church, not to tithe? I wonder if they tithe this way, to make sure the church recieves money? I wonder what people attending a church in Canada would think if they all of a sudden started to tithe in this fashion? It would make a show of those who tithed and those who don't... and on and on... I thought at first, wow these people are happy givers, dancing to the front to tithe, yet, there are those that dance big, and those that saunter slowly... its all an strange event to me... and somewhat fun.
Family Worship Center... A large, rather affluent church we attended in Abuja.
UMCA Chapel in Jos. The picture shows the actual size of the church, small but warm church.
In my Nigerian clothing, outside The Parliament, a pentecostal church in Jos.
UMCA Church in Abuja, the last Sunday in Nigeria, in Abuja. The pastor invited me to speak about my trip to Nigeria and experience with Global Relief.
Foursquare Church, in Abuja. The first Church we attended, and where Peter had me speak right off the bat. There are alot of half built buildings in Abuja.. the town is growing fast. Dont be decieved, the inside is pretty modern and well.
The Church Advocacy visits started from the get go. Peter has me speak in front of a Church body, the first full day in Abuja. He couched me on a couple things to say, where I am from, why am I here, what will I be doing with Global Relief, and possibly to encourage others to come volunteer. This having to do some sort of a presentation, with only a day or even minutes notice in this case, was the norm for Peter, I would come to know. I find it frustrating, as Im the one who likes to be well rehearsed and knowing what to say. Yet, it seems to work out just fine.
We make two church advocacy visits the first Sunday I am in Abuja. Foursquare and Family Worship Center. FMC reminds me of Northview in Abbey a little, weathy, big... yet, here in this wealth, sits rights outside the church gate.
We attend different churches each Sunday, and meet with the Pastors to tell them about Global Relief's poverty reduction efforts. Every Sunday, excluding the one we spent traveling to Mikang, and the one where I was sick in bed. I enjoyed the diversity between the churches, the sit down, stand up of the Anglican, to the jump, down turn around Pentecostal.
One thing I found especially different about the churches in Nigeria, is their ritual of tithing. Its a big deal. Everyone files one by one to the front of the church to slip their envelopes into the front basket, dancing and singing their way to the front, and back to their seat. Sometimes they repeat this procedure several times... Im thinking, I wonder if anyone dares not to be apart of the congo line to the front of the church, not to tithe? I wonder if they tithe this way, to make sure the church recieves money? I wonder what people attending a church in Canada would think if they all of a sudden started to tithe in this fashion? It would make a show of those who tithed and those who don't... and on and on... I thought at first, wow these people are happy givers, dancing to the front to tithe, yet, there are those that dance big, and those that saunter slowly... its all an strange event to me... and somewhat fun.
Family Worship Center... A large, rather affluent church we attended in Abuja.
UMCA Chapel in Jos. The picture shows the actual size of the church, small but warm church.
In my Nigerian clothing, outside The Parliament, a pentecostal church in Jos.
UMCA Church in Abuja, the last Sunday in Nigeria, in Abuja. The pastor invited me to speak about my trip to Nigeria and experience with Global Relief.
Foursquare Church, in Abuja. The first Church we attended, and where Peter had me speak right off the bat. There are alot of half built buildings in Abuja.. the town is growing fast. Dont be decieved, the inside is pretty modern and well.
Selling Gas
If you cant afford to buy much gas, you buy only a little, or what you need, say, to drive your taxi fare from a to b. You can find these sellers everywhere around town. Buy only what you need. You dont have to drive any farther than you need to, to buy a little gas, there is always a small merchant selling a little along this street and the next. You buy their gas, they buy their food.
If you cant afford to buy much gas, you buy only a little, or what you need, say, to drive your taxi fare from a to b. You can find these sellers everywhere around town. Buy only what you need. You dont have to drive any farther than you need to, to buy a little gas, there is always a small merchant selling a little along this street and the next. You buy their gas, they buy their food.
Baturia.
I was told Jos is where the largest "white" population is located in Nigeria. I come expecting to see a "white" and "black" population, knowing nothing; it takes almost 3 weeks before I see another baturia. It becomes a rare oddity to see a baturie (M) or baturia (F) in Jos or anywhere, and I have begun to stare at them the same way the Nigerians stare at me. Who are they? Why are they here? What are they doing?
Pictures from Home.
I am glad I brought pictures from home. They are a great conversation piece. Any who I speak with about where I am from say "I love Canada, and Canadians", yet they know so little about it. They ask what is it like, the pictures help show them what it is like. I finally found a world map near the end of my stay, to show the distance, JUST between Toronto and Vancouver, 4 Nigeria(s) across! Yet, in this, what is to us Canadians, a small country, there are 124, 009, 000 people living in Nigeria alone, compared to 33, 009, 841 in Canada. You do the math!
I Thought Africa was Hot!
And here I thought I was getting away from BC rain! I was darker when I first came to Africa then when I went home. I bugged my friends at Global Relief how my friends back home will think it an oddity coming back home from "Africa" whiter than first starting. It's Africa after all, isn't it suppose to be hot? Jos in at the highest point of the Plateau, in the Plateau State of course. The weather here is like October in BC. Grey, wet and cold... yet sometimes blue and warm, these are cherished days. Had I known I would have brought more than the one sweater I worn day and night. I came during raining season. June-September. July and August being the wettest. But on a good note that means there is water and food! The other months of the year are dry, water runs out, and the vegetation drys up. The dry season is said to be even colder. I thought it was the other way around. But no, its suppose to be colder...
Sometimes when it comes down, it comes down so hard, you are drenched in a matter of seconds, make that 1 second!
I was told Jos is where the largest "white" population is located in Nigeria. I come expecting to see a "white" and "black" population, knowing nothing; it takes almost 3 weeks before I see another baturia. It becomes a rare oddity to see a baturie (M) or baturia (F) in Jos or anywhere, and I have begun to stare at them the same way the Nigerians stare at me. Who are they? Why are they here? What are they doing?
Pictures from Home.
I am glad I brought pictures from home. They are a great conversation piece. Any who I speak with about where I am from say "I love Canada, and Canadians", yet they know so little about it. They ask what is it like, the pictures help show them what it is like. I finally found a world map near the end of my stay, to show the distance, JUST between Toronto and Vancouver, 4 Nigeria(s) across! Yet, in this, what is to us Canadians, a small country, there are 124, 009, 000 people living in Nigeria alone, compared to 33, 009, 841 in Canada. You do the math!
I Thought Africa was Hot!
And here I thought I was getting away from BC rain! I was darker when I first came to Africa then when I went home. I bugged my friends at Global Relief how my friends back home will think it an oddity coming back home from "Africa" whiter than first starting. It's Africa after all, isn't it suppose to be hot? Jos in at the highest point of the Plateau, in the Plateau State of course. The weather here is like October in BC. Grey, wet and cold... yet sometimes blue and warm, these are cherished days. Had I known I would have brought more than the one sweater I worn day and night. I came during raining season. June-September. July and August being the wettest. But on a good note that means there is water and food! The other months of the year are dry, water runs out, and the vegetation drys up. The dry season is said to be even colder. I thought it was the other way around. But no, its suppose to be colder...
Sometimes when it comes down, it comes down so hard, you are drenched in a matter of seconds, make that 1 second!
Poverty Yes, Affluence Yes.
I expected to see the poverty, I just didnt expect to see the affluence on the same neighborhood block.
The gap between the rich and poor is extreme. And the fact that you can see both in front of your face at the same time is mind boggling.
We visited a large Christian Church, monumental in Abuja.
It had a large revolving middle pulpit, made of marble...
A scene in Jos, the garbage billowing into the neighboring water courses that run beisde, through, around and under urban streets. Sometimes I would even spot people bathing in the stream.
A typical street scene in Jos.
The gap between the rich and poor is extreme. And the fact that you can see both in front of your face at the same time is mind boggling.
We visited a large Christian Church, monumental in Abuja.
It had a large revolving middle pulpit, made of marble...
A scene in Jos, the garbage billowing into the neighboring water courses that run beisde, through, around and under urban streets. Sometimes I would even spot people bathing in the stream.
A typical street scene in Jos.
I Arrive in Abuja (July 14th 2007)
After a 9 1/2 hour flight from Vancouver to London, a 9 hour lay over in London, and a 6 1/2 hour flight from London to Abuja, I arrive at the Abuja airport at 4 something in the early morning. It's still dark outside and no one is there to pick me up. There are no problems at the airport, no strange persons with guns or yelling as was pre-warned to me, another's story of traveling to Africa. There are only a small amount of people in the airport, its early morning, and I am the only Baturia (white woman). Lucky for me the woman who was sitting beside me on the airplane is waiting for her husband to arrive, so she sits with me for some 40 minutes and we talk about Nigeria. She lets me use her phone to call Peter from Global Relief and make sure he's coming. He is on his way to the airport. I find out later he only left Jos at 2am (which is about a 4 hour journey to Abuja), and therefore the delay; but I also find out later that this "waiting" would be my daily experience in Nigeria. As spoken by Anne (the caretake at the SIM guest house), in Nigeria, if you want to expect anything, expect delays, and waiting, and for anything and everything to go wrong, especially when you don't want it to.
After about 4 hours of waiting three Nigerian men approach me with big smiles very excited. My ride has come. The men have arrived in Global Relief's new Land Rover. They help carry my bags and we are off. First impressions of Nigeria: its grey and raining, people are everywhere walking and waiting along the roads; umbrellas of every color dot the landscape, red rivers flow thru the mud washed streets, cars and motorcycles move around the road like staggering drunks, the traffic, frightening and unpredictable, and the honking never ceasing. All I can think of is where are we going? Will there be a bed there, I haven't slept in a bed for 2 days now.
Airport in Abuja (Capital City of Nigeria)
Entering Abuja City Center
My first meal/restaurant in Nigeria.
After about 4 hours of waiting three Nigerian men approach me with big smiles very excited. My ride has come. The men have arrived in Global Relief's new Land Rover. They help carry my bags and we are off. First impressions of Nigeria: its grey and raining, people are everywhere walking and waiting along the roads; umbrellas of every color dot the landscape, red rivers flow thru the mud washed streets, cars and motorcycles move around the road like staggering drunks, the traffic, frightening and unpredictable, and the honking never ceasing. All I can think of is where are we going? Will there be a bed there, I haven't slept in a bed for 2 days now.
Airport in Abuja (Capital City of Nigeria)
Entering Abuja City Center
My first meal/restaurant in Nigeria.
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